Book Review

2005-12-15 / Opinions

New Southern Baking
By DAMON LEE FOWLER Reviewed by PEGGY BARNETT

I know better than to read cook books. They are too enticing. If

one doesn’t gain weight just by reading about some delicious things, one may be tempted to produce some of those delicious things. Damon Lee Fowler, who has written five other cookbooks, most on Southern cooking, has now published this one on Southern baking.

He begins with a tribute to “Mama’s bread” and goes on to trace the development of Southern baking, a blend of European, Anglo, and African practices. Then he gets to the reason we buy the book, recipes for quickbreads, fried breads, cookies, cakes, pies, and yeast breads. If that list isn’t too much for you, here are some details. How about Bacon and Cracked Pepper Biscuits? Or Bourbon Pecan Squares/ Or Damson Custard Pie?

Fowler was born in South Carolina and now lives in Savannah, where he writes a feature foods column. He includes facts and tips along with the recipes. For instance, he discusses variations on Southern biscuits, and explains the difference between superfine sugar and powdered sugar and why you may want to use the former.

He tells about the “Art of Toasting.” (I may never use that toaster again.) He is particularly fond of bourbon (not just to drink), extolling its use in cooking where “it lends a smooth richness to the flavor.”

New Southern Baking is fun to read, and also is tempting to the cook. I have tried the spoonbread (which is almost as good as the one my Virginia mother used to make) and plan to try Brown Velvet Cake next. Those pecan squares sound mighty good, too.

There are a few illustrations in this book; more might be too painful, since the recipes are tempting enough. The directions are clear, suitable for amateurs or experienced cooks.

New Southern Baking is available at the Mary Willis Library, if you’re up to it.

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